9401-150 Power Supply Pinout - Revision history

PoC: /* PSU Replacement */ +pic

2026-03-04T01:28:30Z

PSU Replacement: +pic

← Older revision		Revision as of 03:28, 4 March 2026
Line 126:		Line 126:
	[[File:Bicker-ATX20-AT-mod-2.jpg\|thumb\|right\|The modified Bicker adapter. Note the red wire with the heat shrink tube. This is the glued 5 V standby pin.]]		[[File:Bicker-ATX20-AT-mod-2.jpg\|thumb\|right\|The modified Bicker adapter. Note the red wire with the heat shrink tube. This is the glued 5 V standby pin.]]
	[[File:Bicker-ATX20-AT-mod-3.jpg\|thumb\|right\|The modified Bicker attached to a 150. Note that one of the 3.3 V connectors is left unattached, see text.]]		[[File:Bicker-ATX20-AT-mod-3.jpg\|thumb\|right\|The modified Bicker attached to a 150. Note that one of the 3.3 V connectors is left unattached, see text.]]
			[[File:IBM-9401-150-inside.jpg\|thumb\|right\|9401-150 with BeQuiet PSU.]]
	I had successfully replaced the PSU of a 150 with a stock PC ATX PSU. It works. If the original PSU isn't available, this article is meant to help you.		I had successfully replaced the PSU of a 150 with a stock PC ATX PSU. It works. If the original PSU isn't available, this article is meant to help you.

PoC: Reworked

2026-02-14T12:20:37Z

Reworked

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:20, 14 February 2026
Line 1:		Line 1:
	The '''PSU pinout''' of the '''Model 150''' is nowhere to be found on the net. This article should change that.		The '''PSU pinout''' of the '''Model 150''' is nowhere to be found on the net. This article should change that.

	~~The~~ IBM RS/6000 ~~Model B50 features~~ an almost identical PSU compared to the 9401-150. They are interchangeable.		Some IBM RS/6000 Models feature an almost identical PSU compared to the 9401-150. They are interchangeable.

	== Connector to Colors ==		== Connector to Colors ==
Line 12:		Line 12:
	{\|class="wikitable"		{\|class="wikitable"
	!rowspan="2"\|Pin		!rowspan="2"\|Pin
	!colspan="5"\|Connector		!colspan="4"\|AT-Connectors
			!Pin Header Connector
	\|-		\|-
	!1		!1
	!2		!2
	!9
	!10		!10
	!11		!11
			!9
	\|-		\|-
	\|1		\|1
	\|style="background:orange"\|Orange		\|style="background:orange"\|Orange
	\|style="background:black; color:white;"\|Black		\|style="background:black; color:white;"\|Black
	~~\|style="background:red"\|Red<ref>5 V Standby Power</ref>~~
	\|style="background:green; color:white;"\|Green		\|style="background:green; color:white;"\|Green
	\|style="background:green; color:white;"\|Green		\|style="background:green; color:white;"\|Green
			\|style="background:red"\|Red<ref>5 V Standby Power</ref>
	\|-		\|-
	\|2		\|2
	\|style="background:red"\|Red		\|style="background:red"\|Red
	\|style="background:black; color:white;"\|Black		\|style="background:black; color:white;"\|Black
	~~\|style="background:purple; color:white;"\|Purple~~
	\|style="background:green; color:white;"\|Green		\|style="background:green; color:white;"\|Green
	\|style="background:green; color:white;"\|Green		\|style="background:green; color:white;"\|Green
			\|style="background:purple; color:white;"\|Purple
	\|-		\|-
	\|3		\|3
	\|style="background:yellow"\|Yellow		\|style="background:yellow"\|Yellow
	\|style="background:white"\|White		\|style="background:white"\|White
	~~\|style="background:black; color:white;"\|Black~~
	\|style="background:green; color:white;"\|Green		\|style="background:green; color:white;"\|Green
	\|style="background:green; color:white;"\|Green		\|style="background:green; color:white;"\|Green
			\|style="background:black; color:white;"\|Black
	\|-		\|-
	\|4		\|4
	\|style="background:blue; color:white;"\|Blue		\|style="background:blue; color:white;"\|Blue
	\|style="background:red"\|Red		\|style="background:red"\|Red
	~~\|style="background:brown; color:white;"\|Brown~~
	\|style="background:black; color:white;"\|Black		\|style="background:black; color:white;"\|Black
	\|style="background:black; color:white;"\|Black		\|style="background:black; color:white;"\|Black
			\|style="background:brown; color:white;"\|Brown
	\|-		\|-
	\|5		\|5
	\|style="background:black; color:white;"\|Black		\|style="background:black; color:white;"\|Black
	\|style="background:red"\|Red		\|style="background:red"\|Red
	~~\|style="background:grey; color:white;"\|Grey~~
	\|style="background:black; color:white;"\|Black		\|style="background:black; color:white;"\|Black
	\|style="background:black; color:white;"\|Black		\|style="background:black; color:white;"\|Black
			\|style="background:grey; color:white;"\|Grey
	\|-		\|-
	\|6		\|6
	\|style="background:black; color:white;"\|Black		\|style="background:black; color:white;"\|Black
	\|style="background:red"\|Red		\|style="background:red"\|Red
	~~\| ~~
	\|style="background:black; color:white;"\|Black		\|style="background:black; color:white;"\|Black
	\|style="background:black; color:white;"\|Black		\|style="background:black; color:white;"\|Black
			\|
	\|}		\|}

	== Colors mapping ==		== Colors mapping ==
	{\|class="wikitable"		{\|class="wikitable"
			\|+AT-Connectors
	!Color		!Color
	!Meaning		!Meaning
Line 97:		Line 99:
	\|style="background:yellow"\|Yellow		\|style="background:yellow"\|Yellow
	\| 12 V		\| 12 V
			\|}

			{\|class="wikitable"
			\|+Pin Header Connector
			!Color
			!Meaning
			\|-
			\|style="background:red"\|Red
			\|5 V Standby Power
			\|-
			\|style="background:purple; color:white;"\|Purple
			\|Power On
			\|-
			\|style="background:black; color:white;"\|Black
			\|Ground
			\|-
			\|style="background:brown; color:white;"\|Brown
			\|Unknown
			\|-
			\|style="background:grey; color:white;"\|Grey
			\|Unknown
	\|}		\|}

Line 112:		Line 135:

	In addition, you need a (at least) pin header connector for the 5 V standby, power-on and (optional) accompanying ground signals. This is labeled "9" on the board, just right of the other PSU connectors. I'd recommend to use a 5-pin connector with mechanical protection against putting it on in reverse. Pinout:		In addition, you need a (at least) pin header connector for the 5 V standby, power-on and (optional) accompanying ground signals. This is labeled "9" on the board, just right of the other PSU connectors. I'd recommend to use a 5-pin connector with mechanical protection against putting it on in reverse. Pinout:

	~~{\|class="wikitable"~~
	~~!Pin~~
	~~!Signal~~
	\|-
	~~\|align="right"\|1~~
	~~\|style="background:red"\|5 V Standby Power~~
	\|-
	~~\|align="right"\|2~~
	~~\|style="background:purple; color:white;"\|Power On~~
	\|-
	~~\|align="right"\|3~~
	~~\|style="background:black; color:white;"\|Ground~~
	\|-
	~~\|align="right"\|4~~
	~~\|style="background:brown; color:white;"\|Brown~~
	\|-
	~~\|align="right"\|5~~
	~~\|style="background:grey; color:white;"\|Grey~~
	\|}

	Finally, just ignore the grey and brown wire connections of the original PSU's header connector. They either are not used by the board itself, or they are not strictly necessary. Also, newer ATX PSUs do not offer a -5 V supply. This is also not needed, just cut the appropriate wire from the connector going to the board.		Finally, just ignore the grey and brown wire connections of the original PSU's header connector. They either are not used by the board itself, or they are not strictly necessary. Also, newer ATX PSUs do not offer a -5 V supply. This is also not needed, just cut the appropriate wire from the connector going to the board.

PoC: /* Connector to Colors */ Detail

2026-02-14T12:12:08Z

Connector to Colors: Detail

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:12, 14 February 2026
Line 4:		Line 4:

	== Connector to Colors ==		== Connector to Colors ==
	The board has connectors for five cables coming from the PSU. The connectors on the board are labelled 1, 2, 9 (first row), and 10, 11 (second row). All but 9 are mechanically standard 6-pin PC/AT PSU connectors.		The board has connectors for five cables coming from the PSU. The connectors on the board are labelled 1, 2, 9 (first row), and 10, 11 (second row). All but 9 are mechanically standard 6-pin PC/AT PSU connectors. 9 is the single row pin header connector.

	All descriptions and connector labels are taken from an original 150 PSU.		All descriptions and connector labels are taken from an original 150 PSU.

PoC: /* PSU Replacement */ proper naming

2026-02-14T12:09:34Z

PSU Replacement: proper naming

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:09, 14 February 2026
Line 111:		Line 111:
	If you decide to put in an ATX PSU, you need at least four AT style connectors, favorably with wires of at least 20 cm already attached. If you don't have two old AT-style PSUs, you need to obtain connectors elsewhere. I'd better not solder the cables to the connection pins on the board.<ref>In case you need to access the PSU or the board itself, you'll have additional work. In addition, it's just flub.</ref>		If you decide to put in an ATX PSU, you need at least four AT style connectors, favorably with wires of at least 20 cm already attached. If you don't have two old AT-style PSUs, you need to obtain connectors elsewhere. I'd better not solder the cables to the connection pins on the board.<ref>In case you need to access the PSU or the board itself, you'll have additional work. In addition, it's just flub.</ref>

	In addition, you need a (at least) ~~two-~~pin header connector for the 5 V standby, power-on and (optional) accompanying ground signals. This is labeled "9" on the board, just right of the other PSU connectors. I'd recommend to use a 5-pin connector with mechanical protection against putting it on in reverse. Pinout:		In addition, you need a (at least) pin header connector for the 5 V standby, power-on and (optional) accompanying ground signals. This is labeled "9" on the board, just right of the other PSU connectors. I'd recommend to use a 5-pin connector with mechanical protection against putting it on in reverse. Pinout:

	{\|class="wikitable"		{\|class="wikitable"

PoC: /* PSU Replacement */ Different PSU

2026-01-29T20:08:57Z

PSU Replacement: Different PSU

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:08, 29 January 2026
Line 107:		Line 107:
	I had an old PSU available, so I could at least in part deduce which wires have which signal. For the sake of replacing a defective PSU, the old one is just an ATX PSU in disguise: AT-style connectors, but ATX function (3,3 V supply, soft power on/off).		I had an old PSU available, so I could at least in part deduce which wires have which signal. For the sake of replacing a defective PSU, the old one is just an ATX PSU in disguise: AT-style connectors, but ATX function (3,3 V supply, soft power on/off).

	If the old PSU is available but defective, it's a lot less work to repair it. Most often, the two primary caps are at fault. Replace them, most often you should be fine.		If the old PSU is available but defective, it's a lot less work to repair it. Most often, the two primary caps are at fault.<ref>Apparently there is more than one PSU implementation. I found a different one in an RS/6000 43P-150 had a single 180 µF/450 V cap.</ref> Replace them, most often you should be fine.

	If you decide to put in an ATX PSU, you need at least four AT style connectors, favorably with wires of at least 20 cm already attached. If you don't have two old AT-style PSUs, you need to obtain connectors elsewhere. I'd better not solder the cables to the connection pins on the board.<ref>In case you need to access the PSU or the board itself, you'll have additional work. In addition, it's just flub.</ref>		If you decide to put in an ATX PSU, you need at least four AT style connectors, favorably with wires of at least 20 cm already attached. If you don't have two old AT-style PSUs, you need to obtain connectors elsewhere. I'd better not solder the cables to the connection pins on the board.<ref>In case you need to access the PSU or the board itself, you'll have additional work. In addition, it's just flub.</ref>

PoC: Better explanations

2025-07-27T20:48:35Z

Better explanations

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:48, 27 July 2025
Line 6:		Line 6:
	The board has connectors for five cables coming from the PSU. The connectors on the board are labelled 1, 2, 9 (first row), and 10, 11 (second row). All but 9 are mechanically standard 6-pin PC/AT PSU connectors.		The board has connectors for five cables coming from the PSU. The connectors on the board are labelled 1, 2, 9 (first row), and 10, 11 (second row). All but 9 are mechanically standard 6-pin PC/AT PSU connectors.

	All descriptions are taken from an original 150 PSU.		All descriptions and connector labels are taken from an original 150 PSU.

	Connectors 1 and 2 are also mostly standard AT pinout.<ref>The only difference being the white wire, supplying -5 V on the PC/AT; designated ''VFAN'' for the AS/400 PSU, also delivering -5 V.</ref>		Connectors 1 and 2 are also mostly standard AT pinout.<ref>The only difference being the white wire, supplying -5 V on the PC/AT; designated ''VFAN'' for the AS/400 PSU, also delivering -5 V.</ref>
Line 111:		Line 111:
	If you decide to put in an ATX PSU, you need at least four AT style connectors, favorably with wires of at least 20 cm already attached. If you don't have two old AT-style PSUs, you need to obtain connectors elsewhere. I'd better not solder the cables to the connection pins on the board.<ref>In case you need to access the PSU or the board itself, you'll have additional work. In addition, it's just flub.</ref>		If you decide to put in an ATX PSU, you need at least four AT style connectors, favorably with wires of at least 20 cm already attached. If you don't have two old AT-style PSUs, you need to obtain connectors elsewhere. I'd better not solder the cables to the connection pins on the board.<ref>In case you need to access the PSU or the board itself, you'll have additional work. In addition, it's just flub.</ref>

	In addition, you need a (at least) two-pin header connector for the standby, power-on and (optional) accompanying ground signals. I'd recommend to use a 5-pin connector with mechanical protection against putting it on in reverse.		In addition, you need a (at least) two-pin header connector for the 5 V standby, power-on and (optional) accompanying ground signals. This is labeled "9" on the board, just right of the other PSU connectors. I'd recommend to use a 5-pin connector with mechanical protection against putting it on in reverse. Pinout:

			{\|class="wikitable"
			!Pin
			!Signal
			\|-
			\|align="right"\|1
			\|style="background:red"\|5 V Standby Power
			\|-
			\|align="right"\|2
			\|style="background:purple; color:white;"\|Power On
			\|-
			\|align="right"\|3
			\|style="background:black; color:white;"\|Ground
			\|-
			\|align="right"\|4
			\|style="background:brown; color:white;"\|Brown
			\|-
			\|align="right"\|5
			\|style="background:grey; color:white;"\|Grey
			\|}

	Finally, just ignore the grey and brown wire connections of the original PSU's header connector. They either are not used by the board itself, or they are not strictly necessary. Also, newer ATX PSUs do not offer a -5 V supply. This is also not needed, just cut the appropriate wire from the connector going to the board.		Finally, just ignore the grey and brown wire connections of the original PSU's header connector. They either are not used by the board itself, or they are not strictly necessary. Also, newer ATX PSUs do not offer a -5 V supply. This is also not needed, just cut the appropriate wire from the connector going to the board.

	An alternate approach to solder is using adapters:		An alternate approach to solder-replace all wires of the PSU is using adapters:
	* From SATA power to the old Molex Power connectors,		* From SATA power to the old Molex Power connectors,<ref>I'm not sure if this exists, haven't searched. Even using Molex Y-pieces sometimes has proven to be a source for loose contacts.</ref>
	* from the ATX board connector to four AT-style connectors.		* from the ATX board connector to four AT-style connectors.

PoC: /* PSU Replacement */ +pic

2024-03-12T17:49:12Z

PSU Replacement: +pic

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:49, 12 March 2024
Line 102:		Line 102:
	[[File:Bicker-ATX20-AT-mod-1.jpg\|thumb\|right\|The modified Bicker adapter.]]		[[File:Bicker-ATX20-AT-mod-1.jpg\|thumb\|right\|The modified Bicker adapter.]]
	[[File:Bicker-ATX20-AT-mod-2.jpg\|thumb\|right\|The modified Bicker adapter. Note the red wire with the heat shrink tube. This is the glued 5 V standby pin.]]		[[File:Bicker-ATX20-AT-mod-2.jpg\|thumb\|right\|The modified Bicker adapter. Note the red wire with the heat shrink tube. This is the glued 5 V standby pin.]]
			[[File:Bicker-ATX20-AT-mod-3.jpg\|thumb\|right\|The modified Bicker attached to a 150. Note that one of the 3.3 V connectors is left unattached, see text.]]
	I had successfully replaced the PSU of a 150 with a stock PC ATX PSU. It works. If the original PSU isn't available, this article is meant to help you.		I had successfully replaced the PSU of a 150 with a stock PC ATX PSU. It works. If the original PSU isn't available, this article is meant to help you.

PoC: Thanks to "jack23247".

2023-06-23T09:52:18Z

Thanks to "jack23247".

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:52, 23 June 2023
Line 1:		Line 1:
	The '''PSU pinout''' of the '''Model 150''' is nowhere to be found on the net. This article should change that.		The '''PSU pinout''' of the '''Model 150''' is nowhere to be found on the net. This article should change that.

			The IBM RS/6000 Model B50 features an almost identical PSU compared to the 9401-150. They are interchangeable.

	== Connector to Colors ==		== Connector to Colors ==

PoC: /* Power Savings */ More precise

2023-05-24T16:59:56Z

Power Savings: More precise

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:59, 24 May 2023
Line 162:		Line 162:
	\|align="right"\|60 W		\|align="right"\|60 W
	\|-		\|-
	\|Idle		\|Idle (after IPL)
	\|align="right"\|73 W		\|align="right"\|73 W
	\|align="right"\|65 W		\|align="right"\|65 W

PoC: /* PSU Replacement */ Corrected description

2023-05-24T16:55:16Z

PSU Replacement: Corrected description

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:55, 24 May 2023
Line 99:		Line 99:
	== PSU Replacement ==		== PSU Replacement ==
	[[File:Bicker-ATX20-AT-mod-1.jpg\|thumb\|right\|The modified Bicker adapter.]]		[[File:Bicker-ATX20-AT-mod-1.jpg\|thumb\|right\|The modified Bicker adapter.]]
	[[File:Bicker-ATX20-AT-mod-2.jpg\|thumb\|right\|The modified Bicker adapter. Note the red wire with the heat shrink tube. This is the glued ~~power-on~~ pin.]]		[[File:Bicker-ATX20-AT-mod-2.jpg\|thumb\|right\|The modified Bicker adapter. Note the red wire with the heat shrink tube. This is the glued 5 V standby pin.]]
	I had successfully replaced the PSU of a 150 with a stock PC ATX PSU. It works. If the original PSU isn't available, this article is meant to help you.		I had successfully replaced the PSU of a 150 with a stock PC ATX PSU. It works. If the original PSU isn't available, this article is meant to help you.